Food Review: Harte’s of Kildare for the perfect fusion of good food and divine flavours.

Creating new dishes and fusing unusual ingredients is all very fine if you can consistently deliver the goods and keep your clientele coming back. Harte’s of Kildare has had no such problem since it opened in December 2009. Brothers in-law Paul Lenehan and Ronan Kinsella saw the niche and the prime location of the pub formerly known as Ollie’s or the Vatican Bar.

Closed for five years, Paul and Ronan felt there was a strong need for a good gastro pub and restaurant in the town, despite the economy still in recession. “With over 30 years of experience and knowledge between us, we thought Kildare town was ready for a Gastro Pub” said Paul.

How right he was, one of only three restaurants in Co Kildare to achieve Michelin rating, everything about this place works. The food, the flavours, the smells wafting from the kitchen or as staff pass… Here’s another key element to Harte’s success – Head Chef Barry Liscombe has been with Harte’s since January 2010, as have many of the waiting staff.

Delicious Ballyhoura Mushroom and Mossfield cheddar

spring rolls with pecans and maple syrup.

Both Paul and Ronan were quick to attribute Barry’s influence and input to Harte’s success. “He has the knack of mixing seasonal ingredients and adding his own spin” said Paul. “At Harte’s, we put a lot of effort into devising a menu to cater for all palates.

“We serve fresh locally sourced produce, a range of craft beers and a full wine list. In a modern but homely environment – our clients just love the ‘buzz’ of the gastropub, it seems to have the right atmosphere and ambience”.

Chicken wings starter in dry spices,

served with mint yoghurt, great kick in the taste.

Variety of Menus

Harte’s have two main menus to choose from, Tuesday to Thursday Midweek Menu, with courses costing €22 or 3 for €26, fantastic prices for the quality dishes on offer. Blackwater gin cured organic salmon served with avocado, cucumber and beetroot quinoa and dill seemed appealing as did the Chicken live paté with apricot and peach chutney, brioche and walnuts. In the end I opted for chicken wings cooked in dry spices and served with mint yoghurt

The Barrett family have a hot palate so anything that hints of chilli and hot appeals. My guest chose homemade Ballyhoura mushroom and Mossfield cheddar spring rolls with pecans and maple syrup – a real fusion of flavours! Both got the thumbs up, albeit I’d warn anyone who doesn’t like spicy food to avoid the chicken wings. What a glorious kick they had, tempered by the mint yoghurt dressing – and were not, as chicken wings can be, greasy. Angie loved her spring rolls so that’s one I’d be happy to order again.

Whilst the Clougherhead Hake in Carrig Beer Batter was calling out to me, I chose Grilled Lemon Sole, served with brown shrimps, tomato, capers, pea puree, courgette crisps and a bowl of roast garlic and chilli baby potatoes, priced at €22. Anything with garlic and chilli just grabs my taste buds!

Grilled Toonsbridge Halloumi fritters Moroccan-style curry with

chickpea, courgettes, tomatoes, dates and almonds.

The fusion of flavours here was just divine…. Had I not been in a public place, I’d have picked up the bowl and licked it! And that was something else we liked, both mains were blessedly served in bowls by Galgoran. Whilst the current phase is to serve food on slates and artistic looking square flat plates, most pasta or curry dishes or even my fish dish are best served in bowls.

Angie ordered the vegetarian option of Grilled Toonsbridge Halloumi Fritters, Moroccan style curry with chickpea, courgette, tomato, dates and almonds, priced at €17 from the Main Evening Menu. The portions for both mains were generous but the flavours were just “OMG, heavenly”.

Mains included Beef, Duck and Hake dishes but again, it’s the choice of ingredients with each dish that is key: 8hr Braised Blade of Beef served with red cabbage, confit shallot and turnip puree (€21); Duck & Port Cassoulet, haricot beans, with soda bread (€18) or an 8oz Beef Burger, with crozier blue béarnaise, little gem lettuce, red onion and bacon jam, brioche bun and chips (€17). The 10oz John Stone Dry Aged Angus Sirloin Steak also sounded appealing, with shiitake mushrooms, watercress, onions, crozier blue béarnaise or whiskey pepper sauce, with chips for €26 I will try on my next visit, just not after a starter!

On the Midweek Set Menu, there were tantalising dishes which included Organic Salmon and Smoked Coley Cakes, served with poached egg, cider mushroom hollandaise and red cabbage slaw. There’s also Bangers and Mash, described as “Pigs on the Green pork and ale sausages, red onion gravy, black pudding, roast carrot and turnip”.

Starters were all priced at €8 and €9 respectively, again great value for the diversity and quality of the dishes on offer. Sides are €4 and again, portions are generous. Desserts are competitively priced at €7 and included puddings, crumbles, mousse, Chocolate fondae, Harte’s homemade ice cream, or a selection of 3 Irish artisan cheeses served with crackers and cheeses. Full selection of teas and popular coffees, hot chocolate, and herbal teas. The menu is clearly marked with all allergens listed.

For value, choice and quality, Harte’s of Kildare ticks all the boxes but at the top of that pyramid is taste and flavour. Flawless for food, flawless for service and I loved the relaxed, informal but efficient service and friendliness.

Harte’s of Kildare Town: Open Tues-Thurs, 12-9pm: Fri and Sat, 12-9.45pm; Sun 12.30-8.30pm. Bookings at 045 53 3557, Market Square, Kildare Town Email: [email protected]

Proud members of the Restaurants Association of Ireland, the Vintners Association of Ireland and Good Food Ireland, Harte’s has firmly put itself on the map. Paul and Ronan are already looking to develop the building on the corner of the Square, formerly Fitzpatrick’s, into a 9 bed guest house and Cookery School. They also run the Dew Drop Inn, Kill and the renowned Ashton’s in Clonskeagh.

Featured image shows Grilled Lemon Sole with brown shrimp tomato capers pea-puree courgette crisps-and served with garlic and chilli baby potatoes.