KILDARE RESTAURANT REVIEW: Vi’s Restaurant at Lawlor's of Naas dazzles and delights

placeholder image — Vi's restaurant. Pic supplied.

It could very well be argued that Lawlor’s Hotel is one of the star attractions of Naas — perhaps even the linchpin of the town.

Now, the 110-year-old hotel, which was recently awarded a four-star rating, has expanded out and has crafted a brand-new restaurant from the ground up: Vi’s Restaurant.

Named after Violette Lawlor, the daughter-in-law to Brigid Lawlor the hotel founder, Vi was described in national papers as 'a glamorous socialite with a glass of bubbles in her hand', she was celebrated for her style and elegance and her parties were renowned.

According to its press release, Vi’s say that it would promise 'eclectic interiors alongside a premium brasserie style menu that offers diners a fresh new style of dining full of favours, elegantly presented with quality at the forefront.'

Press releases often serve to build up hype around something, but this one was indeed honest: as soon as one walks into the venue, there is an overpowering, yet reassuring, feeling of class.

The restaurant can host 100 people, and has a cone-shaped round bar as a centrepiece to perfectly accommodate the needs of its customers, and to cultivate a welcoming and multicultural atmosphere, which is well-lit despite the encroaching darkness of the night outside, allowing for a spectacular view of the hotel’s garden.

Chief executive officer of Lawlor’s, Dee Nixon, explained that this was very much by design: she explained that the interior of Vi’s is an eclectic mix of pieces from all over the world.

Guests who enter into the restaurant in fact enter through large, brass doors taken from a cash desk in Las Vegas, and the bar’s stools are from a casino in Monte Carlo.

There is a story behind each carefully selected item, curated to compliment the Lawlor’s dining experience.

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FOOD

Although each of the three dishes were exquisite in their own right, the best of the trio was the Pressed Ham Hock: it was cooked to perfection, and as a result, it’s juicy texture provided a real treat for the tastebuds.

Another mix of dishes were prepared for the main course; the Hotel’s trademark 'Surf and Turf on the Stone' made a comeback.

Consisting of a medallion of Prime Irish Beef Fillet, it was followed up with a plate of prawns, taken from Dublin Bay, and then a separate plate of Fresh Irish Lobster.

The truly-tantalising main dishes were perfectly complimented by some Peppercorn/Béarnaise sauce, in addition to some ridiculously-rich Truffle and Parmeson Chunky Chips, Charred Broccoli and Asparagus.

The reputation of the Surf and Turf on the Stone definitely lived up to the hype: in the nicest way possible, it was a larger, more satisfying version of the hammock ham; the epitome of what a mouth-watering steak should be (although whatever you do, do NOT touch the stone!)

Special attention must also be paid especially to the lobster meat, which was in the Goldilocks zone of not being too salty or plain, nor was it too over or undercooked — it was just right.

For desserts, another trademark of Lawlor’s was served: Mrs Lawlor’s Legendary Trifle, which according to the menu on the night, is 'a classic, boozy sherry trifle made using Mrs Lawlor’s own recipe.'

Now, it should be noted that this reviewer has never been a massive fan of trifle with hard fruit in it. However, the fruit here was soft and delectable, and the alcohol contained within meshes perfectly with the succulent cream and jelly.

Props must also go to the immaculate presentation of the desert; it is indeed 'classic.'

Petit fours were also served alongside tea and coffee, and the raspberry-chocolate treat was the clear-cut winner.

A special shout-out must go out to the Italian chef Gino, who entertained guests with his powerful opera covers, and musician

Derek ‘Doc’ O’ Connor, who played numerous pop hits on saxophone, such as Careless Whisper by George Michael (Derek also informed the Leader that he has previously played with Imelda May, Wet Wet Wet and The Boomtown Rats. He also spent 16 years playing music on The Late Late Show).

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GIVING BACK TO NAAS

Speaking to the Leinster Leader, just before the restaurant opened, Dee Nixon said that the hotel’s owner, businessman Jack Tierney, wanted to create Vi’s as a way to 'give back to the people of Naas', and thanked him for this reason.

When asked about what the objective of staff at Vi’s was on the night, she replied: "In addition to the restaurant, we want people to come down and see what Lawlor’s has to offer, as well as to just be able to have fun."

Executive Chef Ronny Wolf, who joined the team in March and has past experience working in various Michelin star restaurants, said that he is 'looking forward to keeping the Lawlor’s name at the forefront of dining'.

Head Chef Simon O’Callaghan also told the Leader: "It is not very often that a chef is given the opportunity to be part of a new restaurant opening, so I’m taking this exciting opportunity to develop my style of cooking towards a more customer-driven approach.

"I am keen to make a menu and dishes my customers want.

He added: "This is more relevant as customers are not just influenced by the tastes, smells and textures they enjoy, but by the impact their dining has on the community and environment."

CONCLUSION

The new, and truly impressive, menus are of a premium brasserie style with a mix of fish, Irish beef, free range chicken and plant-based dishes.

Vegetarians and vegans, along with dietary requirements, can be catered to with ease with a wide variety of dishes that rival their meatier alternatives in quality and quantity.